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Old 05-11-2008, 07:47 AM
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1badF*I 1badF*I is offline
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Idle adjustment on a f4i is on the right side when sitting on it, just below where your knee would be. at the back of plastics. its a black knob hooked to what looks like a hose, there is a cable inside. turn it clockwise and idle that girl up.
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:33 AM
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Thanks 1bad, I didnt know the adjustment was on the right side of a i!!!
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Old 05-11-2008, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkpitbull View Post
Thanks 1bad, I didnt know the adjustment was on the right side of a i!!!

awww sheet. sorry its on the left. what the hell was I thinking?

No sensei, i was not thinking about that.
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Old 05-13-2008, 06:36 PM
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**UPDATE**

Got the idle adjusted properly with the idle adjust knob.

So I have been cruisin around for a few days now and the battery died on me again (brand new battery). I took a voltmeter and it said 11.8x when bike is off, 13.6x when bike is running at idle, and 13.8x when I rev. Obviously the rev charge is low, so does this mean I need a new stator?
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Old 06-09-2008, 11:11 AM
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I just went through this last week. I bought the bike over the winter. It is a '03 F4i and I bought it with 373 miles!! I knew the battery would need replaced soon. The bike died last week and it was acting very funny...just like you described. I replaced mu battery and have been good for the last week of riding....no problems yet. Here is what you do:

1) Beg/borrow/steal a multimeter to read voltage
2) Take the seat off and get to the battery.
3) Measure battery voltage with key off (Should be around 12.8V)
4) Measure battery voltage with key on but don't start engine (Should be around 12.3V)
5) Start engine and measure battery voltage at idle. Again, idle should be at least 1k rpm....I am at about 1100-1200 rpm. You should see the voltage increase to over 13V, and the voltage should increase with throttle input.

If you voltage doesn't increase after you start the enginer or if it decreases, then you have a problem with your rectifier or stator. That is a separate and much longer thread. Hope this helps.

Based on my experience, I think you do need a good battery even if the bike fires up initially. You can't run properly on the charging system alone. I noticed my engine ran smoother after I got the new battery installed.
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siggy View Post
I just went through this last week. I bought the bike over the winter. It is a '03 F4i and I bought it with 373 miles!! I knew the battery would need replaced soon. The bike died last week and it was acting very funny...just like you described. I replaced mu battery and have been good for the last week of riding....no problems yet. Here is what you do:

1) Beg/borrow/steal a multimeter to read voltage
2) Take the seat off and get to the battery.
3) Measure battery voltage with key off (Should be around 12.8V)
4) Measure battery voltage with key on but don't start engine (Should be around 12.3V)
5) Start engine and measure battery voltage at idle. Again, idle should be at least 1k rpm....I am at about 1100-1200 rpm. You should see the voltage increase to over 13V, and the voltage should increase with throttle input.

If you voltage doesn't increase after you start the enginer or if it decreases, then you have a problem with your rectifier or stator. That is a separate and much longer thread. Hope this helps.

Based on my experience, I think you do need a good battery even if the bike fires up initially. You can't run properly on the charging system alone. I noticed my engine ran smoother after I got the new battery installed.
good info to know... glad to see your rollin again bro.
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